How did the protests start?

The protests began on Paros in May 2023 when a group of residents, who were already regularly meeting to talk about environmental issues on the island, began discussing how the spots where people can freely swim and sunbathe (without being forced to pay for a sun lounger) were becoming ever scarcer. It’s one symptom of how the island is increasingly catering to tourists at the expense of locals.

Beach-side businesses that erect loungers and umbrellas must apply for licences from the Greek finance minister to use designated parts of the beach. Checks are meant to be carried out regularly to ensure they are not taking up more space than their licences allow. However, protestors allege that these checks are rarely – if ever – carried out. As a result, free spots for towels are now few and far between.

Residents created a Facebook page called Save Paros Beaches and began organising demonstrations, calling for a crackdown on these private operators. They also used drone images to document illegal sun loungers, comparing their locations to their government-designated areas. “This was a game-changer, because the level of illegality could be seen so clearly,” said local resident Nicolas Stephanou. He says the group found spots where loungers and umbrellas were taking up to 10 times the permitted space.

Where have the protests spread?

The movement has quickly gained momentum; the demonstration on 3 September marked the start of a new nationwide campaign and was the first time that multiple beach towel protests happened in different regions of Greece on the same day.

Demonstrations have taken place on the neighbouring island Naxos and the southern island of Crete. More recently, the islands of Rhodes and Aegina, as well as Attica – the state where Athens is located – have joined in. The location of the Paros protest is particularly symbolic; as the main beach in the island’s central village, it’s the most popular spot for locals to take an after-work dip.

Eleni Andrianopoulou, spokesperson for the Naxos campaign, said she and other locals had been feeling frustrated about over-development on the beaches for several years, but had been unsure how to act. After learning what was happening in Paros, they were immediately inspired to start their own Facebook campaign.

“I think this is a real paradigm shift for Greece,” she said.

Why are these protests so important?

Many Greeks are still suffering financially since the country’s debt crisis more than a decade ago and cannot afford to pay for a sun lounger every time they visit the beach. Sun and sea are a big part of Greek culture – the blue in the Greek flag represents the Aegean Sea, and most Greeks have strong childhood memories of summers spent by the beach.

However, campaigners say the beaches are just one part of a bigger struggle. Greece is one of the most popular holiday destinations in Europe and speakers at the protest told the gathered crowd that overtourism – and the social and environmental problems that come with it – must be addressed.

What’s behind the problem?

Tourism is Greece’s largest industry. In 2021 the country welcomed 15 million visitors – one-and-a-half-times its total population. However, many argue that the tourism boom has not been properly managed. Local municipalities lack the power to control visitor flows, and weak institutions mean it is easy for businesses of all kinds to skirt the rules.

In addition, in recent years, successive governments have used the tourism industry to help the country’s economy recover, from first the 2008 financial crisis and then the Covid-19 pandemic. Politicians have heavily marketed the country as a sun and sea destination and made it easier for foreign investors to open tourism-related businesses.

“[There is a] long-standing lack of oversight, which has led to increased impunity,” said Efthymia Sarantakou from the University of West Attica. She notes that multiple institutions have failed to implement checks and balances, leaving some business free to indulge in “mafia-like” behaviour: “There are allegations of civilians being intimidated by beach bar employees when they tried to sit on what remained as a free part of the beach.”

Mayor of Naxos Dimitris Lainos says that many businesses on his island are law-abiding. However, “we have seen that the Ministry of Finance does not have the staff numbers to carry out adequate checks,” he said.

Is the ‘beach towel revolt’ working?

It appears that the protests are having an effect. Thanks to media attention, authorities carried out inspections on one of Paros’s worst-affected beaches – a strip of sand in a protected area, which was covered in sun loungers despite no licences being issued for them. As a result, the beach is now lounger-free.

However, the situation remains unchanged on other beaches. On Naxos, fresh checks were carried out in response to protests, but many business owners were pre-alerted and simply removed their offending sun-loungers before inspectors arrived.

“I want to believe that these protests will lead to greater citizen participation in managing tourist destinations and, of course, in managing public spaces,” said Sarantakou. “This can only be achieved through improvements in the institutional framework and oversight.”

What’s next?

Summer peak season may be over, but campaigners say the September protests marked the real beginning of their work. On Naxos, Andrianopoulou says they don’t just want more frequent checks, but also more transparency about how licences are awarded – and to whom – in the first place. And Stephanou from the Paros campaign says his group wants to present an entire strategy for a more sustainable model of tourism in Greece.

“Right now, prices are out of control,” he said. “Most people can’t afford to go to a bar or a restaurant. The traffic is incredible.” If you don’t own a house, it’s hard to find one to rent that isn’t an Airbnb, which has led to shortages of key workers such as doctors, nurses and teachers.

What does the movement mean for travellers?

If protestors’ demands are met, there will be more space on Greek beaches to lay down your towel for free – something that many travellers may be grateful for. In previous decades, the majority of Greek islands were known as budget destinations for bohemian backpackers, and many locals feel free access to beaches is in line with this traditional reputation.

Stephanou would like to see a move away from marketing the Cycladic islands as a luxury destination. “There is amazing history here, archaeological sites, walking paths, good wine and agricultural produce,” he said. “This can attract a more responsible visitor than one who just wants to sit on a sun lounger with a cocktail.”

Travellers who don’t want to contribute to overtourism issues may be inspired to explore the lesser-known side of Greece, such as the hiking opportunities in the dramatic mountain scenery that covers the entire country – a great activity outside of peak summer months when the weather is a little cooler.

However, if you really do want to spend some time relaxing on a sun lounger, then rest assured these won’t be disappearing completely – campaigners just want to see them restricted to the areas their licences allow. Visitors to Paros can check whether sun loungers are legal on the campaign’s website.